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Cuatro Caminos: The Heart of Havana

Cuatro Caminos, a name synonymous with bustling commerce, is more than a mere building—it’s a vibrant neighbourhood lifeline. Situated at the intersection of several municipalities, this iconic plaza is now shrouded in silence. As folks pass by, they eye its gates, now closed. “It’ll reopen in dollars,” a security chap reveals to 14ymedio.

The Evolution to Dollarisation

Not long ago, the cavernous space was Havana’s largest market, selling in the magnetic MLC currency. Yet, the once-thriving commercial centre is a shadow of its former self—a skeletal upstairs shop vending household goods is all that remains. The rest, including the supermarket, is swiftly moving towards dollarisation. This trajectory mirrors what other major stores in Havana have embarked upon. The MLC currency, in place since 2021, had proven insufficient to stock its vast corridors.

The Signs Were Clear

A sign of the changing tides came with a butcher’s shop, managed by the Mexican firm Richmeat. It ventured boldly into the dollar realm, courtesy of an agreement with the military conglomerate GAESA’s Cimex Corporation. They intend to run the complex under the moniker La Favorita, profiting from their well-known products.

A Market in Decline

For those wandering around the grandiose edifice that occupies an entire block, the scene was bereft of its former glory. Vacant shelves, unlit aisles, and a pervasive sense of scarcity were all reminders of the market’s inevitable transition. This depletion left a palpable mark on the community, which had thrived on its vibrant trade.

Impact on the Local Economy

The dwindling trade affected everyone in the vicinity. A cigarette lighter repairman confesses, “We live off reselling and hustling.” Without supplies, “people stopped coming from other neighbourhoods.” This change impacted local commerce—fewer patrons meant diminished business opportunities. The santera reading tarot cards, the elderly windshield cleaner, even the young lad selling plumbing parts—all felt the crunch as the mall emptied.

Hope Amidst Change

There’s a burgeoning hope that dollarisation might revive the district’s fortunes. The lighter repairman quips, “The next battle of Cuatro Caminos will be among people who have dollars.” Yet, a repeat of the November 2019 frenzy—when masses swarmed, shelves were cleared, and goods snatched up—is unlikely. Today, not as many Cubans carry dollars in their pockets.

Those intrigued can find the original article here on Havana Times. For more insights from Cuba, feel free to explore further on Havana Times.